Winter 2024

The power of the red lip has been felt across almost all continents and civilizations. From the rare red Benibana flower used by geisha from Kyoto to paint their lips to modern-day women who use it as a symbol of protest and as a political statement. In 2018 women—and even men—from Nicaragua painted their lips with red lipstick and uploaded their photos to social media to protest against the dictatorship of President Daniel Ortega. And in 2019 Chile, about 10,000 women took to the streets with black blindfolds and red lips, protesting against sexual violence. Rouge lips have long been associated with beauty, power and rebellion. Prime Minister of the U.K., MargaretThatcher always sported a red lip and we now see that power-play in U.S. Congresswoman Alexandria Ocasio-Cortez. As red lips are having a moment, some famous scarlet pouts have been associated with Hollywood actresses and entertainers such as Marilyn Monroe,Audrey Hepburn, Gwen Stefani, Rihanna, Emily of “Emily in Paris” and most notably onTaylor Swift, who really knows how to work a red hot lip. I first noticed red lipstick when I was very young, being worn by my mother. My parents seemed to be going to many weddings at that time, and I recall my mom wearing a black suit and hat with a gardenia corsage pinned to her bodice.They always brought home a slice of wedding cake for us and, as we were fast asleep by the time they came home, my mom would kiss us on the cheek good night. I can recall how her red lipstick would leave a kiss-mark on my face and how good it smelled combined with the fragrance of her gardenia. Even at that young age, I interpreted her red lipstick as a powerful beauty symbol.That is why young girls always go after their mother’s lip- stick, before any other cosmetic, to slather it on their face, as it makes them feel that they are not transparent. That they have shown up. That they are being seen. Lip collectibles reflect this red-hot movement.The iconic red lips tele- phone has been used as a movie prop in light comedy films. Jeweled com- pacts and rhinestone kiss brooches are “a must” to collect as well as neck- ties, belt buckles and handbags. It’s an addictive search which grows even more anxious as girls get dolled up in anticipation for Valentine’s Day. Every era of red lipstick, whether it was praised or shunned by society at the time, was a symbol of insubordination, resistance and victory, which brought us closer to the freedom of expression we enjoy today. We feel empowered by being a part of a story that began thousands of years ago, embedded in the history of women’s rights, by simply adding color to the lips. It has been—and always will be—our power color. Marjorie Snow is a published writer and photographer with a vast knowl- edge of antiques and their history. Snow was the owner of Terra Cotta in Las Vegas, an exclusive architectural vintage gallery, which has been featured in numerous West Coast magazines. C A R M E L M A G A Z I N E • W I N T E R 2 0 2 4 95 (Clockwise) 1980s red “hot lips” phone used in romantic comedy films as a prop; a most charming 1970s Fitz & Floyd “Lip Service” teapot; jeweled collection of art deco Dalí- esque compacts and rhinestone lip brooches; ceramic pop art red lips ashtray. All highly collectible and fun to own.